How-To Guide
Crossbow Maintenance: What to Do, and How Often
Four jobs keep a crossbow shooting the way it did out of the box - wax the string, lube the rail, check the fasteners, and replace the string and cables on a schedule. Here is the interval for each, and the mistakes that cost people limbs.
A crossbow needs four things: wax on the exposed string strands, a light film of lube on the flight rail about every 75-100 shots, a fastener check before each season, and a full string and cable replacement every two to three years or roughly 800-1,000 shots. Do those four and a modern crossbow will hold zero and shoot safely for years. Skip them and the failure is rarely gradual — strings let go all at once, usually at full draw, and they take servings, cams, and sometimes limbs with them.
Below is the schedule, the technique for each job, and the short list of things that do more damage than doing nothing at all. Where a manufacturer publishes a number we use theirs; where the field consensus and the manufacturer disagree, we say so.
The maintenance schedule at a glance
| Job | How often | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Wipe down, visual inspection | Every session | Catches frayed strands and loose screws before they become failures |
| Wax exposed string/cable strands | Every 2-3 shooting sessions, or when the strands look dry and fuzzy | Keeps fibers from drying, abrading and separating |
| Lube the flight rail | Every 75-100 shots | Reduces center-serving wear, the #1 consumable on a crossbow |
| Condition the servings | With each waxing | The served sections take the worst of the cam bends |
| Check fasteners and scope rings | Pre-season and after rough travel | Vibration walks bolts loose; a loose limb pocket is a catastrophic failure waiting to happen |
| Drop of lube on cams/axles | As needed, and after the bow gets soaked | Reverse-draw cam bearings especially |
| Replace strings and cables | Every 2-3 years or ~800-1,000 shots | Fibers fatigue on a clock, not just a shot count |
Two of those numbers deserve context. The 75-100 shotrail-lube interval is TenPoint’s published guidance for normal conditions, and it is the closest thing the category has to a standard. The 800-1,000 shot / 2-3 yearstring life is the band most makers and custom string shops converge on — TenPoint recommends replacement roughly every three years regardless of shot count, because synthetic string fibers age whether you shoot them or not.
Waxing the string and cables (and the part you must not wax)
String wax is not lubricant; it is a moisture and abrasion barrier that keeps the individual fibers from drying out and sawing against each other. The technique matters more than the product:
- Wax only the exposed, non-served strands.Run a thin coat along the bare sections of string and cable, then work it into the bundle with your thumb and forefinger or a scrap of leather until you feel heat. That friction is what drives wax between the fibers — wax sitting on the surface has done nothing.
- Do not wax the center serving. The center serving is the tightly wrapped section that rides the rail and contacts the trigger box. Wax there attracts grit, and grit is what actually cuts servings. Condition the servings instead, with the lubricant your manufacturer specifies for them.
- Pay attention to the end loops.The serving wrap where the string bends around the cams takes the sharpest angle on the whole bow. TenPoint specifically calls out conditioning the serving around the end loops, and short axle-to-axle crossbows — the compact designs most hunters now buy — are notably harder on that area because of the extreme string angle.
- Frequency: by appearance, not the calendar. Every two to three sessions is a reasonable default. If the strands look dry, pale or fuzzy, you waited too long.
Rail lube: every 75-100 shots, and less is more
The flight rail is where the center serving drags at full acceleration, and it is the single highest-wear interface on the bow. TenPoint’s guidance is to lube the rail approximately every 75-100 shotsunder normal conditions — more often in dust, sand or after rain.
The counterintuitive part is that over-lubing is worse than under-lubing. TenPoint states plainly that applying too much lube causes excessive wear on the center serving, and on bows with an integrated cocking unit it can cause the ACUdraw felt pad to fall off. A thin film wiped down to almost nothing is correct; a visible bead is not.
Use a purpose-made crossbow rail lubricant. The silicone-based formulas stay workable in cold weather and shed dirt rather than collecting it — the reason the manufacturers sell their own instead of telling you to use whatever is in the garage. If you shoot a lot, count shots the way you would count rounds: three quivers of practice bolts is roughly 75-100 shots on a busy afternoon.
Fasteners, limb pockets and cams
Crossbows shake themselves apart quietly. Every shot sends a violent pulse through the riser and stock, and over a season that vibration walks fasteners loose. Before each season, and after any trip where the bow rode in a truck bed or a bouncing side-by-side:
| Limb pocket / limb bolts | The critical ones. Check against your manual's torque spec - never just 'snug them up.' A loose limb bolt is how limbs come apart under load |
|---|---|
| Riser and stock bolts | Loose stock hardware shows up as inconsistent point of impact before it shows up as a rattle |
| Scope rings and base | The most common cause of a bow that 'lost its zero' over the summer |
| Quiver mount and accessory rails | Low stakes mechanically, high stakes for noise at 20 yards |
| Cams, axles and cam bearings | A drop of the manufacturer's lubricant when needed - and always after the bow has gotten soaked. Reverse-draw designs put more work through their cam bearings |
| Cocking device | Rope cockers fray; crank mechanisms collect grit. Inspect the rope and hooks every session and replace a frayed rope rather than 'getting one more hunt' |
While you are in there, look at the limbs themselves in raking light. Hairline cracks, delamination at the tips, and any splintering are stop-shooting-now findings — a service-center problem, not a field-repair one.
When strings and cables actually need replacing
Most manufacturers converge on every two to three years, or roughly 800-1,000 shots, whichever arrives first. TenPoint’s own recommendation is about every three years regardless of shot count. Real-world reports run wider than that in both directions — some hunters report needing replacement near 700 shots, some strings survive four or five seasons of light use — because the variables are design and conditions, not just volume.
Replace early, not on schedule, if you see any of these:
- Serving separation.Gaps in the serving wrap that show the string underneath — especially where the serving bends around the cams — is the clearest single signal that a string is done.
- Fuzzing or broken strands on the string or cables that wax will not lay back down.
- Shifted cam timing marks. Most cams carry alignment marks; if they no longer line up, the string has stretched past its usable service life and the bow is out of time.
- Any contact with a sharp edge, a fall, or a dry fire. A dry fire is an automatic full inspection at a service center, not a judgment call.
One design note worth knowing before you shop: short axle-to-axle crossbows are hard on servings. The tight string angle pinches the center serving and wears it faster than a wider bow does. That is a trade, not a defect — you buy the narrow bow for treestand clearance — but budget for string service a little sooner. Our best crossbows roundup notes axle-to-axle width on every pick for exactly this reason.
Storage and the off-season
The off-season damage most people cause is passive. Three rules cover it:
- Never store a crossbow cocked.Not overnight, not "just until tomorrow morning." Leaving the limbs under load takes life out of both the limbs and the string, and a cocked bow in storage is the single most common source of crossbow accidents.
- Store it dry, cool, and out of the case if the case got wet. A soft case that went into the truck damp will hold that moisture against the bow for months. Dry the bow and the case separately.
- Pull the scope battery for long storage if your scope is illuminated. A leaked cell in June is a dead scope in October.
Bolts and broadheads deserve the same attention. Inspect every bolt for cracks, especially carbon shafts, by flexing them and listening — a cracked shaft is the other way people get hurt. Our crossbow bolts guide covers the inspection routine and what spine and weight actually do for you.
Five things never to do
- Never dry fire. Firing without a bolt sends the full energy back into the bow instead of into an arrow. It is the fastest way to destroy limbs, cams and strings, and it voids warranties.
- Never de-cock by shooting into the ground.It is a good way to damage a bolt in a way you will not see, and shooting that damaged bolt later can cause a catastrophic failure. Use a discharge target, a purpose-made de-cocking bolt, or your bow’s crank de-cocking function — see how to cock and de-cock a crossbow.
- Never use general-purpose penetrating oil(the aerosol in every garage) on rails, servings or trigger assemblies. It thins the manufacturer’s grease, migrates where it should not, and collects grit.
- Never over-lube. Repeated because it is the most common self-inflicted wound: excess rail lube accelerates the exact wear it is meant to prevent.
- Never keep shooting a bow with visible string damage to finish a practice session or a hunt. A string that lets go at full draw releases hundreds of foot-pounds inches from your face.
The pre-season checklist
Run this three to four weeks before opening day — early enough that a service-center finding does not cost you the season.
| 1. Full visual | Limbs, riser, stock and cams in good light. Any crack, splinter or delamination stops the process |
|---|---|
| 2. String and cables | Serving separation, fuzzing, cam timing marks. Note the install date - if it is 3 years old, book the service |
| 3. Wax and condition | Exposed strands waxed and worked in; servings and end loops conditioned |
| 4. Rail | Clean off last season's residue, then a thin fresh film |
| 5. Fasteners | Limb pockets, riser, stock, scope rings and base to manual torque |
| 6. Trigger and safety | Safety engages and holds; anti-dry-fire mechanism functions |
| 7. Cocking device | Rope not frayed, hooks intact, crank turning smoothly |
| 8. Scope | Fresh battery, rings tight, reticle level |
| 9. Bolts and broadheads | Flex-test every shaft, replace any suspect one, spin-test broadheads on the shaft |
| 10. Re-zero and practice | Zero with the exact bolt and broadhead combination you will hunt with, out to your real maximum range |
Step 10 is the one people skip and the one that costs animals. Field points and broadheads do not always print together, and a bow that held zero in a case for nine months has earned a fresh confirmation. Our guide to sighting in a crossbow walks the 20-30-40 yard sequence, and how far a crossbow can shoot covers where to honestly draw your maximum line.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I lube a crossbow rail?
About every 75-100 shots under normal conditions, per TenPoint's published guidance, and more often in dust, sand, or after the bow gets wet. Use a thin film of purpose-made crossbow rail lube and wipe the excess away - too much lube actually accelerates center-serving wear rather than preventing it.
How often should crossbow strings and cables be replaced?
Most manufacturers call for replacement every two to three years or roughly 800-1,000 shots, whichever comes first. TenPoint recommends about every three years regardless of shot count, because string fibers age with time as well as use. Replace sooner if you see serving separation, broken strands, or cam timing marks that no longer line up.
Can I wax the center serving on a crossbow string?
No. Wax the exposed, non-served strands only and work it in until you feel friction heat. The center serving rides the flight rail and contacts the trigger box - wax there collects grit, and grit is what actually cuts servings. Condition the servings with the lubricant your manufacturer specifies instead.
Is it safe to leave a crossbow cocked overnight?
No. Storing a crossbow cocked keeps the limbs and string under full load, shortening the life of both, and a cocked bow sitting in a truck or a garage is the most common setup for a crossbow accident. De-cock with a discharge target, a de-cocking bolt, or your crank's de-cock function before the bow goes anywhere.
What lubricant should I use on a crossbow?
Use the products your manufacturer specifies - typically a silicone-based crossbow rail lubricant that stays workable in cold weather and does not attract grit, plus a string wax for exposed strands. Avoid general-purpose penetrating oils: they thin factory grease, migrate into the trigger assembly, and hold dirt against the serving.
Do I need a bow press to replace crossbow strings?
Yes, and on many models you also need manufacturer-specific fixtures. Crossbow limbs store enormous energy, and releasing it without the right press is genuinely dangerous. Unless you own the equipment and know the procedure for your model, string and cable replacement is a dealer or service-center job.
Sources
- TenPoint - do I have to periodically lubricate the parts of my crossbow?
- TenPoint - 10 tips for getting your crossbow ready for season
- TenPoint - crossbow maintenance kit and product notes
- Buckmasters - 10 pre-season crossbow maintenance tips
- CenterPoint Archery - crossbow care: prep before sighting in
- 60X Custom Strings - how often and when to change a crossbow string
- Borkholder Archery - when should crossbow strings be replaced?
- Crossbow Nation - string and cable replacement (owner reports)
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